- For a country with notoriously conservative laws, Singapore has a lively nightlife scene. Its best-known club, Zouk, moved to the tourist hub Clarke Quay in 2016, losing much of its underground appeal in the process, but there are other options. Warehouse parties are becoming a regular thing, while clubs like Kilo Lounge and Headquarters offer a more mid-sized option. The latter is a two-room space just up the river from Zouk in Boat Quay, where it's surrounded by seafood restaurants, old shophouses and a bar called Skinny's Lounge. Small and comfy, it's as much of a weeknight hangout as a nightclub.
Headquarters began life as a dark corridor on the second floor. Its concrete walls were covered in scribbles and messages from patrons, who are still encouraged to write their signatures with a Sharpie. More recently, the venue expanded, taking over the space above its main room, creating a purple-and-pink-hued house counterpart—complete with a patio overlooking Singapore's impressive skyline—to the techno hall below.
It was in that brighter room that Jonathan Kusuma settled in for his first all-night set at Headquarters. The gig had something of a homecoming feel—in the midst of a recent tour that included a debut set at Berlin's Panorama Bar, the Indonesian DJ had relocated to Singapore. Regulars gradually found their spots on the dance floor, readying themselves for the long haul. One clubber, who was handing out chocolates to everyone, told me his favourite time to come to the club was "ten minutes before it opens."
There's a growing buzz around Kusuma, who plays a slow and chuggy style of dance music in the tradition of Andrew Weatherall. He mixes newer records, some of which verge on tech house, with '80s synth tracks—the kind you'd hear on Dark Entries—plus fresher remixes and the occasional contemporary techno track that fits the aesthetic. He played DJ Hell's remix of Yello's "Bostich" and, during one particularly cathartic moment towards the end, D.F.X.'s commanding classic "Relax Your Body."
Kusuma revels in odd melodies, jarring breakdowns and—most of all—funky guitar licks, which were the most obvious link between his far-flung selections. His almost seamless transitions made the steady throb of the music even more hypnotizing. It was one of those sets where I didn't want to leave the dance floor for fear of missing what he might play next.
Over the course of the night, people ebbed and flowed through the club. Sometimes the dance floor was popping, other times it was near-empty. But between the smiles, dance moves and frequent conversations between strangers—not to mention promoter Eileen Chan walking around with shots of Berliner Luft and waving around burning Palo Santo to "lift up the energy"—Headquarters was proof that the best clubs are often the most understated. Sometimes all you need is a small room, some lights, a fog machine and a good soundsystem. Add a world-class DJ into the mix and you've got something really special.